'In descending from the plateau by the precipices that edge them, one is suddenly transported from parched wastes to pleasant pastures...
Above, on that stone table, are wind, cold, nakedness, poverty, moroseness, hideousness, - a void, for few villages are found aloft; below, orchard land, warmth, gaiety, abundance.
The startling contrast between some of the cañons and their causses forms one of the most phenomenal beauties of beautiful France.'1
Wrote Sabine Baring-Gould (an Anglican priest, antiquarian, novelist, folk song collector and eclectic scholar), in his 1894 book: The deserts of Southern France : an introduction to the limestone and chalk plateaux of ancient Aquitaine. He found the causses to be ‘veritable deserts: in winter a Siberia; in summer a Sahara…’
The vicomté of Turenne occupied a strategic location on the borders of the Périgord, Limousin, Quercy and Auvergne. The vicomté emerged during the Carolingian empire, first references date back to the 8th century, the first known Lord of Turenne dates back to 8232. Controlling the Dordogne, Vézère and Corrèze rivers (bulk transport wood, metal, wine, grain and salt), the old roman roads Lyon-Bordeaux and Paris-Toulouse important for communication as well as the pilgrim routes to Rocamadour and Compostela.
Historically part of the independent Vicomté de Turenne, Terrasson’s location, on the border of the Périgord and Limousin, allows for visiting Rocamadour by driving through the Corrèze and Lot départements. Swim, hike or just hang-out at the Lac du Causse's beach, visit historic Turenne, Martel, the natural red stone village of Collonges-la-Rouge, picturesque Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, Curemonte, Autoir, Carennac, the vin paillé vineyards or the underground river at Padirac.
This fiscal paradise avant la lettre did not pay taxes to France nor its kings, had its own army, its own currency and was ruled by a parliament representing the different states. The vicomté perfected the game of remaining neutral in wars, playing the ‘French’ (Capetian) and Angevin (‘English’) out against each other and welcomed protestants fleeing persecution in France.3
At the beginning of the 17th century to cultivation of tobacco was banned in France to favor the Compagnie des Indes with a monopoly. As the vicomté was not part of France it became the source of high quality tobacco smuggled into France.
Overtime the viscount ran into debt and by 1738 the then king of France Louis XV acquired the vicomté as his private property. It was not till after the french revolution the local parliament was abolished (1802) and the area absorbed into 3 french departments. Bringing a 1000 year independent history to a close, not without regret. ‘”Si la vicomté de Turenne n'avait pas a été vendue à Louis XV, nous serions toujours indépendants”, soupire-t-il, une nuance de regret dans la voix’, L'école de Brive fonder Jacques Peuchmaurd is quoted as saying in a article in L’Expresse4.
Be that as it may, the abolishment of the vicomté brought the privileges (and economy) to an abrupt end, freezing much of the area in time. Today the area is dotted with some of the most beautiful villages of France. The villages conserve the memory of a prosperous economy based on tolls, tolerance and tax (evasion).
France’s most beautiful villages
Turenne
The table mountain of Turenne has been attractive for its natural defensive position, fortifications date back to the 8th century when it became the center of the Carolingian land of Tornés, over time giving birth to the 'Vicomté de Turenne'.
After the reformation Turenne became a protestant stronghold becoming a safe-haven for protestant artisans, continuing to enjoy a privileged position well into the 18th century, when it became the property of Louis XV and the catholic Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Pantaléon church (7) was reconstructed.
After the revolution the castle and defense works were largely dismantled, leaving the round Caesar’s tower (1) and square donjon (2) ornamenting the plateau, whiles scattering stones and ornaments are across the village. Walking around you will spot windows, doors, cornerstones and statues ornamenting unexpected places. The Capucines chapel (3) hosts exhibitions in summer and has a metal viewpoint sticking over the 13th century defense wall, walk through the port de la ville (4), find the cazemate du virage (5) and the tour dite du Calvaire (6) parts of the 16th century defense works.
Martel
Driving towards Martel through the barrenness of the causse, seeing a skyline emerge dominated by 7 towers is a clear indication you are approaching a historic place. “Martel” (french for ‘hammer’), was the name given to the great Charles Martel in the 700s. Legend has it the ‘savior of Europe’ (and grandfather of Charlemagne), founded this garrison town, after defeating the Muslim forces that took over Aquitaine in 732, to block any future Islamic advance towards northern Europe.
The Palais de la Raymondie (1) at the center of town houses a small museum largely dedicated to the Puy d’Issolud, a Celtic archaeological site (to the west) which has been identified as Uxellodunum, besieged by Julius Caesar in 51 BC, legendary last stand of the Gauls against Roman occupation.
And Martel hosted an Angevine (‘English’) tragedy. When Henry ‘the younger king of England’, took refuge and died here in 1183. So estranged and antagonized from his father, the count of Anjou (and Henry II ‘the elder king of England’) only arrived after his death was confirmed, thinking the scene had been a trap set by his son to catch him.
The small town is densely packed with history, a weekly farmers market is held in the historic Halle (2) every Saturday. Rich in local produce, and seasonal truffles and mushrooms gathered from the surrounding forests and causse. Strolling through the small streets admire the Maison Fabri (3), Hotel de Briance (4), Maison de la Vidalie (5), Hotel de Mirandol (6), Saint-Maur church (7) and La Tour Tournemire (8).
Towards the south of the town you will find the train station from which a steam train plies a historic rail line constructed on the Dordogne river cliff side.
This story continues here: La Vicomté de Turenne (II)
Baring-Gould S., 1894. The deserts of Southern France : an introduction to the limestone and chalk plateaux of ancient Aquitaine. As accessed through Gallica.
Pradels J-L., 2013. Ombres et lumières de la vicomté de Turenne, Quatre familles de vicomtes. Bluetree – Edition. ISBN: 9-791090-808027.
Favier J., 2004 (2015). Les Plantagenêts, Origines et destin d’un empire Xie-XIVe siècle. Éditions Tallandier, collection Texto. ISBN: 979-10-210-0881-6.
‘"If the Viscounty of Turenne had not been sold to Louis XV, we would still be independent", he sighs, a shade of regret in his voice’
Les gaillards de Brive, Autour de l'éditeur Jacques Peuchmaurd, une bande d'écrivains s'est enracinée en Limousin. C'est l'Ecole de Brive. Pons Anne, 24/10/96. In: L’Expresse. As accessed through: https://www.lexpress.fr/informations/les-gaillards-de-brive_618965.html